Saturday, December 23, 2023

As I sit here with a heating pad on my back, I am reminded that my body may not be able to handle several double sessions in winter anymore.  But I also wouldn't change this week for a healthy back right now. Jersey got some insane waves with some clean perfect lines.  I was happy that my knees held up (thanks to some good cortisone shots) but my back eventually gave out.  But damn it was fun!    

But let me start by re-introducing myself--I am a mid-50s Jersey surfer.  I was never one of the best surfers in the water or even that guy looking to rip the newest shortboard model. Instead, I am the guy having fun, surfing whatever board looks good, and hoping my knees hold up so I can surf the next day.  I love the retro shapes and simply gliding down the line rather than tearing into a wave.  I would rather be smooth than aggressive.


Part of what made this week so fun was being able to surf most of the boards in my quiver.  A few years ago I finally went to a quiver that suited my current surfing style.  I now own all mid-length and longboards--so I guess in today's market I am cool!?!  I also surf all Matador boards because as their motto says, "The Right Board for the Right Coast".  Nothing could be more true.  So here is my current quiver. 


6'8" Bandito (although I like to call it a Hooligan since it is a Boneyard).  Round nose, 5-fin, and paddles like a dream.

7' Matador Gringo.  Classic single-fin stinger model with lots of volume. Great board for those big winter days.

7'8" Matador Hip Cat.  A mid-length model single-fin glider.  For some reason I just feel cool slipping down the wave on this board. 

8'2" Matador Brighton.  This is a mid-length, 5-fin version of the Matador East.  This board is just easy to ride and yet has the ability to rip into a wave even at 8'+.  

9'2" Collier Classic.  Your classic single-fin noserider.  If you want a longboard, this is the one to get.

In the coming weeks, I will take some time to discuss each of these models, how they surf, what they do for the average surfer, and who might like them and who might not.  I will discuss some of the other Matador models and all things surfing.  It should be a fun ride!