Welcome to the Matador/BoneYard surfboard blog. This site is about your everyday surfer discussing boards, surfing, and anything else that comes to mind. The reason the focus is on Matador and BoneYard surfboards is because these boards just work and the guys who shape them make sure they work for you. These boards are still hand shaped in the USA with the care and attention to what works for your everyday surfer. And that is me--I am not a young, hot ripper looking for the latest 5'6" shortboard shape. I want a board that floats me, paddles easily, gets me into the wave early, and performs down the line. For every surfer that board is going to be different, but for most of us the pro-style ASP tour board is not it. Don't get me wrong, I wish I could surf like Kelly, Dane, Parko or any of the other gods of surfing. But I can't and won't--that is just a reality. Does that mean I can't have as much or more fun than those guys every time I paddle out? Nope! But it does mean that I probably need a different board.
That is where this blog comes in. This is a place to discuss the type of boards that work for us--your everyday surfer. Remember, surfing is about having fun and just enjoying the glide. For everyone that has caught a wave, you know the experience is like nothing else. It becomes part of your soul, who you are, and what you want to be. It becomes part of our identity--we are surfers, for now and for life. And that has nothing to do with how hard you hit the lip, how big of an air you pulled or how deep the barrel was. It is about a love for riding waves, no matter how you do it.
I recently got back from surfing the West coast with my right coast board--an experience I will discuss in future posts. But when I was in Huntington I snapped a couple of pics at the walk of fame. The picture above truly captured the spirit of this blog, so I leave you with the words of Mark Richards, "Surf for fun."
I'm eager to hear about your west-coast-with-Matador-board experience. I've got a 5-day conference/surf trip coming up in April (San Diego) and need to figure out what to bring with me. I'm neither a young ripper *nor* The Professor, so it may not actually matter much which board I'm trying to ride. But I'm not sure I want to paddle out on a rental, either. Ocean Beach and maybe Sunset Cliffs in the plans.
ReplyDeleteIf I am correct, you have a nice Bandito in your quiver--yes? That is the perfect board for San Diego waves. Just pack it well--lots of bubble wrap inside that travel bag. And hopefully you are flying Southwest since they are one of the only airlines with reasonable surfboard baggage fees. Check out Scripps Pier in La Jolla--that was one of my favorite spots when surfing out there a few years ago. Fun wave, great form, plenty of face-time to play with and a generally mellow lineup.
ReplyDeleteYou are correct. Sadly, $400 on US Airways. Probably better spent on a nice new (or used) Matador East. I've been looking at that 9'2" demo in the shop...
ReplyDeleteOuch! That hurts--yeah, spend that on another board. I think you would do real well on the East and it will make your sessions on the Bandito even better. A longboard is an essential summer board. There is rarely a day that you can't paddle out with one of these boards. Check these guys out for a rental while in San Diego: http://www.sdsurfboardrentals.com/
ReplyDelete8'2" Tudor single fin might work for you. They will even deliver the board to your hotel and pick it up before you leave. I rented a board from them a few years ago--it was a solid board and good experience. No Matador, but sometimes you gotta rent when traveling.
Thanks! They've got a 7'6" funboard, too, but that Tudor looks good. Some fellow academic surfers in SD have offered to lend me a board, which might be the best option.
ReplyDeletePlanning another trip for October and looking at Air Tran--$100 / board, round trip.
I'm sold on the longboard argument. Looking to get the most out of LBI, starting the second this semester wraps up.
Just got home from four glorious days of sunny surfing in San Diego. Limited to biking range, so I didn't make it to Scripps, but Ocean Beach was just fantastic, and Sunset Cliffs--my first reef break--was, even on a sloppy day, one of the best sessions yet for me. Easy take-offs and long rides. Did everything on two beat up loaners with cracks and dings and who knows how much extra water weight. It's a minor heresy to make this observation in the context of your original post, but as long as you're having fun, the board doesn't really matter!
ReplyDeleteThe locals at the Cliffs sneered at my leash. I sneered at their 4/3s and hoods in 60-degree water. Sad to hang up the spring suit for another couple of months but eager to get back to LBI.
Nice--Cali is a great place to surf. Lots of consistent surf and long lines. Fighting the crowds can sometimes be a bummer but in the end it is always great to be in California. It is also great to get back east. See you in the water!
ReplyDeleteYour article was a pleasure to read and provided me with valuable information that I can use going forward. Thank you for taking the time to create such a well-crafted piece.
ReplyDeleteAwakesurfcollective