Remember going to buy your first new surfboard? Or really, the feeling of going to get any new surfboard, whether it is your first or not? It is a fantastic feeling--knowing that you are getting a new board and hopefully the board that you really want. There are few things in life that can rival it. But back to the idea of buying your first board or maybe even your first couple of boards. There are some different feelings involved in that event as well; yes, it is exhilarating knowing that you are getting a new board, but if your experience was anything like mine, it was also filled with ignorance about what you were getting.
I will never forget purchasing my first new surfboard. I was 19 years old (I did not start surfing till I went to college in Florida) and I bought the board while home in NJ for the summer. To this day I could not tell you the dimensions of the board. I remember the brand and the color (a dazzling orange that all my buddies in Florida made fun of), and I remember it looked really cool! I mean, it looked like a great board. So what the heck does that mean? Well, it means that I liked the way the board looked on the rack so I bought it. I was completely ignorant of what type of board I needed, the shape, dimensions, etc. I basically looked at the board, thought it looked awesome and bought it. I have since learned about these things and also learned that what makes the board work goes beyond the typical three dimensions that all boards list.
Take my BoneYard Fly model (pictured above). I ordered this board as my everyday board, hoping that it would work in everything from waist high to overhead waves. But as a bigger guy, I needed some extra volume in the board while still keeping it nice and loose. The Fly was the perfect model for me and the shape provided me all the elements that I was hoping for. If you look at the usual three dimension--height, width and thickness--the board appears suited for my larger frame. The board is 6'5" x 20.5" x 2 3/4". But the beauty of this board goes beyond those numbers. Let's talk about one of these elements, rails.
One element that people do not consider enough is the rails. In order to get a little more volume, the Fly carries the thickness through most of the board, especially up front. So instead of only having the width listed on the board existing in the middle, it carries a lot of this to the nose and the tail. The result is more volume to help me get into the wave sooner--and remember, if you can't catch a wave, you can't surf the wave. If you want a more performance-oriented board, then look for something that thins as you move to the nose and the tail. But remember, this type of rail cuts down on the volume of the board which makes it more difficult to paddle and less stable as you take-off and head down the line. These are two factors that anyone starting out needs to seriously consider.
The other aspect of the rail to consider is the shape. Is it a hard rail (often called a down rail) or a soft one (round)? Or does it flow from a softer to harder rail? On the Fly, the rail is fairly soft in the middle but hardens as you move towards the tail. On the board I was discussing last week, my biscuit shape, the rails remain soft throughout the board, only hardening to some degree in the tail. Now there are lots of nice diagrams you can find that discuss all the different variations on this (50/50 rails, 60/40 rails, rolled rails, etc)--the diagram to the right gives some indication of the different rails. But if you want to get a real sense of the shape, just grab the board and feel the rails. It will be fairly obvious what type of rails the board has from the first touch. Is it nice and rounded with no edges? Or do you feel the rail turn into a hard edge? And remember to feel the rails throughout the board, not just in the middle. What the hard edge does is provide the board with more maneuverability and hold in bigger, steeper waves. It will give you a rail that is easy to sink into the water. This type of rail is more performance-oriented, something we all may want but may not help our surfing. The soft rail is forgiving, perfect for those starting out or your small wave board. What I mean by forgiving is you are less likely to catch a rail when surfing and it provides a more stable ride that will also float over the flat spots of a wave. Of course this can vary, with a medium rail that is often "tucked under." This provides the best of both worlds--a rail that provides maneuverability and hold, but also is more forgiving and stable. The Fly is a good example of this rail and so I am able to ride it in head high+ waves but still flow nicely in the smaller stuff.
So when buying a board you need to consider what the rail will do for you and your surfing. You also have to be aware of what YOU need in a board. Not every surfer needs the same type of board. Ultimately, this means being honest about your ability and using that objective assessment to buy the best fitting board for you. The right board can make all the difference in how much fun you have in the water. Buying a board because it looks good on the rack or because it will look good as you walk down the beach is a mistake I see far too often. Buy the board that will help you catch more waves and improve your surfing. This means paying attention to the big three numbers (height, width, thickness) but also grab those rails and make sure they fit your style and ability as well. And remember, surf for fun!
I just got a walden mega mini magic, what are you thoughts on those boards? just curious. thanks. I'm a good size guy 6'2" 195 so i always guy allot of foam. this thing is massive though. 6'10" 23 1/2 by 3 3/4 thick rode it twice so the jury still out thats why Im wondering what you think
ReplyDeleteThanks for the question Bill. Before I give you an answer, I am curious about your surfing experience, where you surf and what other boards you are riding (if any). I believe that every surfer needs a board tailored to their skill set and local break, so it is hard to answer the question without that info. I will say that it is a solid shape and should provide plenty of float.
ReplyDeleteThanks for getting back so quick, I've been surfing over 20 years. I rode like a 6'2 in high school, then got a fun shape for a while then a 6'6. rode a 7'6 for a few years then got a 9'6" which I LOVED. last year I bought a 6'6" twin retro fish and ride that as well. I just recently acquired the Walden, I surf more like chandler from North shore. lol. more of a carver wide turns, no airs or anything like that. I surf jersey all year whenever there is waves, mostly lbi but anywhere from manasquan to brigantine. I almost bought one of those boneyards before my fish they look solid. So I was just curious about the walden since its much wider and thicher than im used too. thanks
ReplyDeleteLet me start by saying that I have not ridden a Walden so I can't comment on the board from first hand experience. It looks like a decent shape although it is really thick and wide for a 6'10". I wonder whether it will be a bit corky even for someone our size (you have the height on me but not much more in weight). I also remain leery of the Global Industry boards. Because they are now primarily made overseas I have read a lot of reviews that question their durability. I will be interested to see what you think of the board as you get to ride it a bit more. I am partial to hand shaped boards (I like that someone is still shaping a board that fits me, not a one-size fits all model). And of course I favor the Matador/BoneYard boards--take a look at the Bandito as a similar shape to the Walden. As I look at the two there are a couple of things I like about the Bandito better: 1. On a 6'10" you are going to get a thinner and narrower board than the Walden but trust me, it has all the float that bigger guys need. So someone with your experience will get into everything and be able to draw out those big long carves better. 2. The outline of the Bandito just seems to provide a better flow for the water. The winged tail (which the Walden lacks) allows the board to turn a bit more like a shortboard. But it is all personal preference. I would like to hear what you think of the board as you ride it a bit more. Give me a review and maybe we can start a conversation on here about the board and what works and doesn't. Thanks again for the comment!
ReplyDeletewill do I'll look at the bandito. i agree about hand shaped, i got my fish from Brian Wynn and I dig it. the jury is still out on the Walden, hoping to score some am surf tomorrow. I'll def hit you up in a few weeks on my thoughts of the walden.
ReplyDeleteAnd remember, b/c the Matador boards are hand shaped we can order a Bandito in whatever dimensions you desire. A real custom board at what I think is still a good price. Should be fun tomorrow--enjoy!
ReplyDeleteI can really relate to your experience of buying your first surf board. I also chose one of the surf brands that looked great on the rack and I had no idea what I was buying.
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ReplyDeleteHow did you get on with he walden mini mega magic? What are your thoughts on it?
I was thinking of one myself, I'm 6'1 and 200lbs, riding a performance longboard 9'1 x 22 x 2 5/8
Just bought a Walden Mini Mega Magic, 6'10 version and have had two pretty long sessions on it. I'm 5'11 and 90kgs so I really felt the volume on this monster. first off the negatives; it is nearly impossible to duck dive this thing, I tried but I ended up coming up with the board heading back towards the beach, gotta accept that it will be turtle rolling or nothing with a 67 litre board. Next, it is corky and it took me a while to get used to the adjustments I needed to make in my stance in order to get the best ride out of it. The positives; although it IS corky, it turns really well. I was surprised by how easy it was to bottom turn given the volume, the tail shape works well after the drop. My paddling seems easy now, I was worried about getting out back but the extra speed you get when paddling this thing is awesome. I had no problems getting out past the breakers after a few turtle rolls, it just moves you on the water.
ReplyDeleteWhen on the wave this board offers you the option to keep going, which is why I bought it, I am an intermediate surfer with a lot more to learn and the waves I surf mean I needed more practice on the face but I was finding it hard to get on green waves early enough with my previous 6'7 funboard. This solves that issue as it really is hard to miss a wave when you start paddling the Walden. Once up, it really does have the maneuverability of a shorter board, you have time to adjust your footing and move about on the wave. The extra float gives you a bit more confidence to experiment.
So, my verdict is it is an excellent board if you want to transition form a beginner to someone who can surf the face and learn how to turn. I feel it will always be a useful board for smaller days even if I graduate onto a shorter fish or thinner board in a few years. personally, I'm loving it. More waves caught equals more fun on the day.
I also own a mini and what jimmy describe can't be more accure, it is a great board to have fun and make the transition to a smaller board , i am considering the hi5 from channel 6,2 with 42lts , i try the HI5 6f i love it but i woudn't mine a bit more volume i am 5,8 165 but been surfing for a year i try to surf a few times a week but i am in boston so it is really hard to get really good weaves, any reviews of the HI5 from CHI
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I have a 7'6" mini mega magic - I like it - it is difficult to duck dive, but if its clean, not that much of an issue - I am 6'4" & 250 lbs., so I need something different than most surfers - in clean surf head high and under, this board works well - it did however take some time to get used to
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